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LouieA whole new genre
October 2nd 2007 10:20
Galliano's last catwalk show for his own label was brash brazen bordehlo but this season for Dior he's shifted from the door-jambs of Paris to the silver-screens of Hollywood, invoking screen sirens and sirs across eras, genders and genres.
Parts of the collection were pure 40s vamp, a kind of seduction based not just on skin but on sultry personas, animal prints and coiffed hair.
Others invoked Gatsby, playing with the styles and shapes of suiting, silhouetting the feminine within the masculine.
And Daisy with the dropped waists, pastels and nonchalance.
There was Marlene Dietrich, portrayed by Australia's Gemma Ward, with stained lips, layered textures and a powerful presence.
And then something of A Clockwork Orange in these oversize bowler hats, something sinister in the gait and expression.
Galliano's brilliance, irreverance and steadfastness to couture ensure his place at the pinnacle of international fashion, not to mention his ability to turn out two of the most innovative collections every season, one under his name and another for one of the stalwarts of French fashion..
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Parts of the collection were pure 40s vamp, a kind of seduction based not just on skin but on sultry personas, animal prints and coiffed hair.
Gender bender
Others invoked Gatsby, playing with the styles and shapes of suiting, silhouetting the feminine within the masculine.
Darling Daisy
And Daisy with the dropped waists, pastels and nonchalance.
Gemma the chameleon
There was Marlene Dietrich, portrayed by Australia's Gemma Ward, with stained lips, layered textures and a powerful presence.
Sinister, no?
And then something of A Clockwork Orange in these oversize bowler hats, something sinister in the gait and expression.
Galliano's brilliance, irreverance and steadfastness to couture ensure his place at the pinnacle of international fashion, not to mention his ability to turn out two of the most innovative collections every season, one under his name and another for one of the stalwarts of French fashion..
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