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A whole new genre

October 2nd 2007 10:20
Galliano's last catwalk show for his own label was brash brazen bordehlo but this season for Dior he's shifted from the door-jambs of Paris to the silver-screens of Hollywood, invoking screen sirens and sirs across eras, genders and genres.

Galliano leopard print dress
All images from Style.com


Parts of the collection were pure 40s vamp, a kind of seduction based not just on skin but on sultry personas, animal prints and coiffed hair.

Galliano pinstripe suit
Gender bender


Others invoked Gatsby, playing with the styles and shapes of suiting, silhouetting the feminine within the masculine.

Galliano blue dress
Darling Daisy


And Daisy with the dropped waists, pastels and nonchalance.

Galliano black coast beret trousers
Gemma the chameleon


There was Marlene Dietrich, portrayed by Australia's Gemma Ward, with stained lips, layered textures and a powerful presence.

Galliano bowler hat pinstripe jacket
Sinister, no?


And then something of A Clockwork Orange in these oversize bowler hats, something sinister in the gait and expression.

Galliano's brilliance, irreverance and steadfastness to couture ensure his place at the pinnacle of international fashion, not to mention his ability to turn out two of the most innovative collections every season, one under his name and another for one of the stalwarts of French fashion..
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Gloria Smythe – an Iconic Australian Designer, Author, Illustrator and Design Teacher.

Part 1 – Trade Patternmaker to the Royal Family


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Melbourne Cup Carnival Fever 2008

September 10th 2007 15:35
Whilst Sydney's spring carnival racing may have been bought to a standstill, the Stylist whose Celebrity was voted one 1 of 9 best dressed at the Melbourne Cup, this very blogger shares her tips as she prepares the 2008 VRC Ambassadors wardrobes for this years Melbourne Cup Racing Carnival...

What’s In


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A Portrait of Pedro and Penelope

August 26th 2007 01:42
Pedro and Penelope
"Smile for the camera!"


What do Pedro Almodovar, Penelope Cruz and camera have in common? Is it their Spanish blood? Perhaps yes for both Pedro and Penelope. But there's something else that some of you probably don't know yet, and that is their ability to create great movies! I know I pretty much gave the clue away when I mentioned the camera bit, but apparently there are still many who aren't aware of their brilliant collaboration in movies.
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J'adore Dior

July 20th 2007 08:20
I realise I’m running a little behind the couture shows but I am grasping the moment because, as the title indicates, my infatuation with Dior continues, exacerbated by Galliano’s recent designs for their couture show.

Couture is the aesthetic height of the fashion industry epitomising Oscar Wilde’s motto: “art for art’s sake”. Certainly some of the dresses are sold but couture is a millstone round the ankle of fashion houses as far as profit is concerned. The hours and effort spend to make each dress are Herculean, the expense of fabric and beading utterly Olympian (as in the Mount not the games


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Demi - Now whole with Ashton

June 25th 2007 09:59
For years Demi was little more than a fashion curiosity, there was her marriage to Bruce Willis and that head shaving incident (it worked far better on Natalie Portman) but since her reinvention circa Charlie’s Angels number 2 and her attachment to Ashton her fashion kudos has raised no end.

Demi Moore YSL
From Vogue.co.uk

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Daria Werbowy: Canadian Amazon

June 15th 2007 00:07
Daria Werbowy
From Dariawerbowy.org


Pictured here all fresh faced and delightful is Daria Werbowy of Canada. Werbowy, like Jessica Stam, passes my knee test (if the thigh is wider than the knee then the model is not sick) and not only that but she exhibits an intelligence one may not expect from models. Maybe she’s simply learned to feign intent with those blue eyes of hers, or perhaps I’m prejudiced because she’s brunette but I do think there’s something more in Werbowy’s brain than is usually held in the mind of a model


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In my habitual internet trawlings I came across quite a feat on the Prada website. Admittedly I didn’t much like this season’s collection but the means by which it is represented is a true cultural document. Prada demonstrates wit, self-reflexivity and pastiche in a way that many other ‘postmodernists’ should envy. As a European luxury brand, descended from a grand tradition to a commercial reality, Prada is a modern day icon but the self-representation offers an entirely new perspective on the brand.

Prada sunglasses
From Prada.com

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Gucci sucks

June 13th 2007 00:43
Just about anyone with any style steers clear of Gucci on the whole and their Autumn/Winter 07 collection only affirms that general principle. Let’s take a look at some examples.

Lily Donaldson in Gucci
From Gucci.com

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Why fashion?

June 11th 2007 23:11
Manolo Blahnik spring/summer 07
From Manoloblahnik.com Just try telling me that this is not beauty


With a background in literary theory and philosophy, an interest in fashion has been a naughty secret of mine for some time. But it’s time to go public. I love fashion and I’ve got good reasons. Firstly, it is aesthetically pleasing but also the social and cultural significance fashion holds are part of our everyday non-verbal communication


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French, a singer and daughter of Serge, Charlotte Gainsbourg had to be gorgeous. Obviously inheriting more of her actress/model mother's (Jane Birkin of Hermes Birkin bag fame) looks than her brooding crooner dad. Recently she gained greater Australian exposure in The Science of Sleep, starring alongside Gael Garcia Bernaz as a Parisienne neighbour gradually drawn into a world of fantasy and phantasm. As you can see in this picture there was minimal attention paid to her hair and makeup, her wardrobe was dowdy and still she radiates beauty.

Charlotte Gainsbourg in the Science of Sleep
From MSN.com

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VivienneWestwood.com
From Viviennewestwood.com


After visiting the Victoria and Albert exhibition which travelled to the National Gallery in Canberra a few years ago, I’ve been obsessed with Vivienne Westwood. It’s not just that she’s sixty and has a beautiful thirty-year-old Italian lover, although that does impress me, and it’s not just that she’s been an inspiration for generations of fashionistas, mostly it’s because for Westwood, fashion is thought


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One of the most striking models of the contemporary brat pack is Jessica Stam, a statuesque Canadian who has the kind of natural physique required for catwalk shows. She is indeed long and slender but there is nothing painful about the proportions of her legs or the position of her clavicle. My general rule is that if the knee is wider than the thigh there’s a problem but Stam is in proportion as you can see from the Stella McCartney show.

Jessica Stam in McCartney
From Style.com

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Black is invariably the new black

June 5th 2007 23:49
Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy
From photobucket.com


Although Coco Chanel was really the first to bring the black dress into the everyday wardrobe of the modern woman, its place was indeed cemented with Hepburn’s appearance in Givenchy during Breakfast at Tiffany (see Sisi's post) last year for more on that dress


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