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LouieThe size of the size zero debate
September 27th 2007 07:25
The size zero debate is the new black, the latest fashion trend, which, like all fads, is probably not wise to buy (into) too much. I am not saying that the emaciated idealisation of the female body is not a problem, but that the media and public response is on the side of hysteria. For some perspective on my perspective, it should be known that I am not a size zero. I am not six foot tall, and I do not know anyone that has come under the attack of this new moralizing discourse.
While I agree there are consequences to 'ultra-thin' perfectionism, I also believe there are great gaps in the solutions, and further discrepancies in the debate itself. I admit, restrictions on size in the smaller spectrum of models in Madrid, and soon Australia, are potentially positive, and could help alleviate expectations of and pressure on the industry's clothes horses. I also think the claims from the industry itself, arguing that the restrictions disenfranchise 'naturally thin' girls who always wanted to model a bit rich. Hey, I feel ripped off by the very tall modelling world because I'm five foot four. Furthermore, they would have been turned away for being 'too thin' ten years ago. Contextualise the situation, get a different job (that will last longer than five years), and get a clue.
My concerns are about how the moral panics treat their target. Often, it is as though they need protecting and guidance, with a voice of authority telling them what to do. Apparently, women still cannot think for themselves. Hello, women's liberation? Voice of reason, where did you go?
I have a sneaking suspicion that an industry established on viewing and aesthetics will always be attacked for violating physical and moral vision. Second wave feminists would have derided the fashion world for subscribing to a feminine ideal. People today question why some models are models at all, considering them ugly. It's all a matter of taste, and no one has any authority to tell another what should be considered attractive. Yes, designers are in a power position to send teeny items on tiny women down the runway, but that doesn't mean someone else has to agree it's what's hot. When Jean Paul Gaultier sent a size 20 model down the catwalk in lingerie, I did not agree it was a great stance against or for the debate. I do not think he was taking anything or anyone seriously. Big is beautiful? Overweight replacing underweight is not a sensible statement, nor is it respectful of the body at all. If Gaultier really wanted to make waves, maybe he could have had Australian size 12 women model his wears.
I would love to see beautiful clothes on my ideal of a beautiful body, like Eva Green, Zooey Deschanel or some of my friends, but I know this will not happen. Frankly, I don't care: I'm looking at the clothes as a potential buyer, or for inspiration. The model just happens to wear what I'm considering, and is inconsequential to my decision. I am aware that this attitude is not universal, and I don't think it should be. The beauty of fashion is its invention, recycling, appropriation and invogorative capabilities, hardly the child of a single idea. I do not think moral panics surrounding the fashion industry will ever subside. I am a dubious person, and I am also starting to feel the first pricks of panic regarding the expiry date of models.
A skinny model, quick! Where's the bandwagon?! Image from dancewithshadows.com
While I agree there are consequences to 'ultra-thin' perfectionism, I also believe there are great gaps in the solutions, and further discrepancies in the debate itself. I admit, restrictions on size in the smaller spectrum of models in Madrid, and soon Australia, are potentially positive, and could help alleviate expectations of and pressure on the industry's clothes horses. I also think the claims from the industry itself, arguing that the restrictions disenfranchise 'naturally thin' girls who always wanted to model a bit rich. Hey, I feel ripped off by the very tall modelling world because I'm five foot four. Furthermore, they would have been turned away for being 'too thin' ten years ago. Contextualise the situation, get a different job (that will last longer than five years), and get a clue.
My concerns are about how the moral panics treat their target. Often, it is as though they need protecting and guidance, with a voice of authority telling them what to do. Apparently, women still cannot think for themselves. Hello, women's liberation? Voice of reason, where did you go?
I have a sneaking suspicion that an industry established on viewing and aesthetics will always be attacked for violating physical and moral vision. Second wave feminists would have derided the fashion world for subscribing to a feminine ideal. People today question why some models are models at all, considering them ugly. It's all a matter of taste, and no one has any authority to tell another what should be considered attractive. Yes, designers are in a power position to send teeny items on tiny women down the runway, but that doesn't mean someone else has to agree it's what's hot. When Jean Paul Gaultier sent a size 20 model down the catwalk in lingerie, I did not agree it was a great stance against or for the debate. I do not think he was taking anything or anyone seriously. Big is beautiful? Overweight replacing underweight is not a sensible statement, nor is it respectful of the body at all. If Gaultier really wanted to make waves, maybe he could have had Australian size 12 women model his wears.
Jean Paul Gaultier's size 20 statement, image from dailymail.co.uk
I would love to see beautiful clothes on my ideal of a beautiful body, like Eva Green, Zooey Deschanel or some of my friends, but I know this will not happen. Frankly, I don't care: I'm looking at the clothes as a potential buyer, or for inspiration. The model just happens to wear what I'm considering, and is inconsequential to my decision. I am aware that this attitude is not universal, and I don't think it should be. The beauty of fashion is its invention, recycling, appropriation and invogorative capabilities, hardly the child of a single idea. I do not think moral panics surrounding the fashion industry will ever subside. I am a dubious person, and I am also starting to feel the first pricks of panic regarding the expiry date of models.
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