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A whole new genre

October 2nd 2007 10:20
Galliano's last catwalk show for his own label was brash brazen bordehlo but this season for Dior he's shifted from the door-jambs of Paris to the silver-screens of Hollywood, invoking screen sirens and sirs across eras, genders and genres.

Galliano leopard print dress
All images from Style.com



Parts of the collection were pure 40s vamp, a kind of seduction based not just on skin but on sultry personas, animal prints and coiffed hair.

Galliano pinstripe suit
Gender bender


Others invoked Gatsby, playing with the styles and shapes of suiting, silhouetting the feminine within the masculine.

Galliano blue dress
Darling Daisy



And Daisy with the dropped waists, pastels and nonchalance.

Galliano black coast beret trousers
Gemma the chameleon


There was Marlene Dietrich, portrayed by Australia's Gemma Ward, with stained lips, layered textures and a powerful presence.

Galliano bowler hat pinstripe jacket
Sinister, no?


And then something of A Clockwork Orange in these oversize bowler hats, something sinister in the gait and expression.

Galliano's brilliance, irreverance and steadfastness to couture ensure his place at the pinnacle of international fashion, not to mention his ability to turn out two of the most innovative collections every season, one under his name and another for one of the stalwarts of French fashion..
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Ode to an Italian Dress

October 1st 2007 01:52
DOlce and Gabbana Summer 08 PAINTED BLACK DRESS
All images from http://eng.dolcegabbana.it


Flamboyant and theatrical, Dolce and Gabbana’s Summer 2008 collection is indeed replete with works of art. From the hand-painted fabrics, the obsession with intricate embellishments and details to the matte velvet lips, D & G invoke a Keats-ian realm - instead of a Grecian urn, this is my ode to an Italian dress


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J'adore Dior

July 20th 2007 08:20
I realise I’m running a little behind the couture shows but I am grasping the moment because, as the title indicates, my infatuation with Dior continues, exacerbated by Galliano’s recent designs for their couture show.

Couture is the aesthetic height of the fashion industry epitomising Oscar Wilde’s motto: “art for art’s sake”. Certainly some of the dresses are sold but couture is a millstone round the ankle of fashion houses as far as profit is concerned. The hours and effort spend to make each dress are Herculean, the expense of fabric and beading utterly Olympian (as in the Mount not the games


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More Mouret

July 5th 2007 08:28
Only a few posts ago I was bemoaning the lack Roland Mouret in my life after that galaxy dress (worn rather well by Demi Moore). But Style.com has informedme that he has returned, view their article here.

And here's my favourites of the aforementioned collection


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Gucci sucks

June 13th 2007 00:43
Just about anyone with any style steers clear of Gucci on the whole and their Autumn/Winter 07 collection only affirms that general principle. Let’s take a look at some examples.

Lily Donaldson in Gucci
From Gucci.com

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VivienneWestwood.com
From Viviennewestwood.com


After visiting the Victoria and Albert exhibition which travelled to the National Gallery in Canberra a few years ago, I’ve been obsessed with Vivienne Westwood. It’s not just that she’s sixty and has a beautiful thirty-year-old Italian lover, although that does impress me, and it’s not just that she’s been an inspiration for generations of fashionistas, mostly it’s because for Westwood, fashion is thought


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One of the most striking models of the contemporary brat pack is Jessica Stam, a statuesque Canadian who has the kind of natural physique required for catwalk shows. She is indeed long and slender but there is nothing painful about the proportions of her legs or the position of her clavicle. My general rule is that if the knee is wider than the thigh there’s a problem but Stam is in proportion as you can see from the Stella McCartney show.

Jessica Stam in McCartney
From Style.com

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Balenciaga, Vernacular Fashion

May 31st 2007 00:33
Gemma Ward Balenciaga
From Style.com
After using Balenciaga as an example in my white shirt post I remembered what a stand-out collection Nicolas Ghesquière produced for Fall 2007 collection and I was reminded by our very own (why are we so patriotic when it comes to beautiful people) Gemma Ward wearing Balenciaga at Cannes.

Balenciaga Dress
From Style.com

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