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Gilbert Adrian

November 14th 2006 09:38
Gilbert Adrian
Gilbert Adrian, circa 1935 (fashion encyclopaedia)
Gilbert Adrian was a brilliant designer and costumer, best known for his work in the 1939 film 'The Wizard of Oz'. I remember marvelling at the costumes in this movie as a kid, but I only recently discovered that Adrian was responsible for them.

Born on March 3, 1903 in Naugatuck, Connecticut, Adrian's flair for sketching and his dramatic creativity were evident from a young age. He went to the New York School for Fine and Applied Arts, which is now known as Parsons School of Design. After quite an uninspiring year owing to bad marks, the school transferred Adrian to the Paris campus with the expectation that the creatively fertile environs would be better to sustain his attention. While there, he was hired by Irving Berlin and subsequently designed the costumes for Berlin's 'The Music Box Revue'.

Within a year of commencing school in Paris, Adrian dropped out and returned to America to launch his career in costume design. After moving from New York to Hollywood, he was taken on as the head costume designer for Cecil B. DeMille's independent film studio. In 1928, DeMille's studio joined production company MGM and continued to employ Adrian as its costume designer. During his time at MGM, Adrian designed costumes for more than 200 movies.

Gilbert Adrian costume for Greta Garbo
Gilbert Adrian costumes
Gilbert Adrian costume for Katharine Hepburn
(Slate Magazine)


Adrian dressed actresses such as Joan Crawford, Norma Shearer, Jean Harlow, Katharine Hepburn, and his muse, Greta Garbo. He was responsible for Crawford's trademark big shoulder pads, which initiated a fashion craze later on. Notorious for his laborious research and his knowledge of character development, Adrian assisted the abovementioned actresses in delving into and appreciating their characters, whilst ensuring they were dressed in the most charming attire.

Gilbert Adrian
Suit designed by Gilbert Adrian (metmuseum.org)
In 1941, Adrian left MGM to open his own independent fashion house, though he continued to work with Hollywood. Between 1942 and 1952 he made dresses and elegant outfits that women would cherish for years. For example, take a look at the suit on the right, which he designed for Fall 1950. I really like the 'pieced together' look of the jacket. There is something so contemporary about Adrian's designs - he was way ahead of his time.

He only went back to MGM for one last movie, 1952's 'Lovely to Look At'. Though he was never nominated for an Academy Award, Adrian developed designs that were fused with emotion in a way that still inspires designers nowadays.

* These images are taken from fashion encyclopaedia, Slate Magazine, and The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.

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5 Comments. [ Add A Comment ]

Comment by katyzzz

November 14th 2006 16:46
Sisi,

One has to wonder whether formal courses kill the truly creative, what an inspirational story and you told it very well.

This is an area in which I don't take much interest, but you won me!

katyzzz!

Comment by Cibbuano

November 14th 2006 22:27
I like those old fashions, but I recoil at the way women wore their hair in those days...

Comment by Sisi

November 15th 2006 05:46
Far out, I didn't realise that hairstyle was so repulsive to anyone. I think it looks hot

katyzzz that was such a lovely comment! So glad to have facilitated an interest in fashion for you!

Comment by Laura

November 15th 2006 07:25
hah! i thought some of the hairstyles back then were pretty cool, ie. those curls everyone had inthe 20's?

meanwhiles don't you reckon that MANY things look better in black&white?

Comment by Sisi

November 15th 2006 08:51
I definitely think so Laura, black and white is my favourite colour (or lack of) scheme...it's great.

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